Tuesday, March 16, 2010

Protapgarh

Prithibir shob cheye shundor jaega bharotborsho. Jodi nijer desh tai na ghurey dekhte parlam, amar jonamnor sharthokota ta kothae bolte paro?! Kashmir theke konyakumari, assam theke gir, bharoter she koto roop, koto onge, koto shaaj, desh ta boroi shundor. Aj gorber cheye beshi anondo lagje khub… choto bela theke raja ranir golpo shunte shunte ek shomoy nijei thik korechilam, ami raja rani der abar khuje baar korbo, reason because, tara amar school e ashto na, sleeping period eo eshe desk er opor e “close your eyes and go to sleep” korto na… r ghumate jawar por raat bhor hoye gelei kothae j chole jeto, ma abar na daakle ashar naam i nito na. ‘ora boro byasto’ was the explanation I had been given. Desh udhdar korte hoy, oder ki r addition subtraction kinba jack and jill muchosto korte hoyechilo konodin, I wonder… joto shob baje baje education system, amader tolowar chalate shekhano uchit chilo.. eto jhamela ek kop e shob shesh hoye jeto baje baje neta gulo.







Itihash newar bindumatro ichce chilona amar college. Date mone rakhte parina, r ja hoye geche, ta money rekhe hobeta ki!!! Bhugol kopale chilo na..shhe ek onno golpo onyo din bolbo. But jai hok, gheshtate gheshtatey masters pass korey ekta chakrio peyegelam bhalo jaegae.eka thakte thekte ekta phd Jodi korte pari, r ekhon to abar amar “raja rani hunting down” er fetish ta ekta notun obotar niyeche.. oder niye joto na koutuhol, amar oder bari ghor, oder durgo kella, oder raj paat niye matha ghamatey beshi bhalo lage. Guide allocation er shomoy j bhodromohila amaye supervise korbe bole thik holo, khub gombhir hoye bollo – gv me 1 reason y I shd take u in. ami jhotajhot ekta chobi aklam, kagoj ta tar hathey diye bollam, ota indiar map. Ami ghurey ghurey shob kota fort individually study korte jachci. apatoto library jachchi, Porey dekha hobe. She was stunned but agreed to supervise me.







Mash khanek holo ami join korechi college e as assistant professor of history. Project er taka ashtei ami ekta plane dhorey chole elam shoji Pune, shekhan theke Satara bole ekta jaegaye. Destination kella Pratapgad. Amar bondhu mahabaleshor theke amaye join korbe aj shondhyaye, tarpor amra berubo first time dekhe astey jaega ta. Cheleta, maney koustuv, economics er holeo shudu onko r maakro porena, ghurey berateo khub bhalobashe. Shujog holo, ami beriye elam, r kaktaliyo bhabe, oro kisher ekta conference er kajey mahabaleswor e ashte hoyechilo, tai plan kora holo j dupurer por amaye field e accompany korbe. Goto mashe Rajastan e extensively khete eshechi. Rajasthan khub complex polity. Ektu beshi frustrating, oder lineage gulo thaor kora moha chaper. Rajastan e ekta onyo rokomer sensation hoyechilo. But ekhaner suspense ta khanikta alada...







Shomotol bhumi na, khanik pahar, khanik ebro khebro jongol e bhora, jongli jhi jhi pokar daak din dupurey shunte pawa jae chapiye jaye jeep er engine er shobdo ke.. ar majhe majhe nodir joler jhilik pachchilam. Shamne ashtei chokh chole jae jotodur, dekhte pawa jae koyna nodi..r hothat kore hurmuriye uthte thaka protapgorer kalo pathorer durgo…shurjaster shomoy e ki roop tar, ki apurbo suhndor lagje, ekta uchu tilar opor uthe ache, as if procaliaming superiority to all mankind, intimidating all the ones who even dare to caste a glance its way, enmeshed in an unspoken silence, suspense exuding from every pore…ufff….opurbo. Koustuv o spell bound hoye takiye ache. majhe majhe ki jeno bir bir kore bolche – money hoy kothata ‘byapok’. durger r beshi kichu porey nei, gota structure, countless chambers and house structures, chara prokando duto watch tower akashe uthe geche medieval dhonshabosesh er gaan shonatey shonatey…walt disney’r castle er moton, shudu, ota animated na, shomoyer dhakka kheye jirno futo futo hoye jawa pathorer. Animated bhabey ami takiye achi, thaor korar jonno j lok gulo eto massive deyal tullo ta kikorey!!! Hathte hathtey bhetorer dikey dhukte giye dekhlam purono astabol, bhanga bhanga bishal boro pathorer patro, shomboboto ghorader khaddobostu dewar jaega chilo. Gae kata diye uthlo, Shodashiber golpo gulo chokher shamne bhaste laglo…chokh bondho korlei jeno shone jachche ghorar khurer awaj. Garo hoye jawa aabcha aloyey protidhdonito hochche oronyer epranto theke opranto…jonomanush shunno durgo hothat bhorey gelo hoi hoi roi roi te… shibaji firche… wal’er raja khurdan khan ke hariye shibaji joyi hoye durgey firche. Aj mohautshob.. chotto theke briddho shobai tader bari theke beriye eshe swagoto janachche, tar naam niye takey shongbordhona dichche, ful churche taar choroney… bhobanir mondirey aj ghonta bajche, kashor bajche, r sathe chendar tale tale nachche purohit moharaj ra shibajir joyoganey protapgor aj pagoler moton jege utheche, pran firey peyeche, notun kore bachar karon firey peyeche…







Hawaye amar Benetton’r tupi ta urey gelo..ami chut tey chut te otar pechone praye bhobanir mondir er kache pouche gechi..kintu kothae ekta taal kete geche. Shob abaar chup. Durgo ta ager motoi nijum pretpurir moton dariye. mondirer dorja bhanga, but bhetorey lal shada chondoner prolepey protima pathor hoye dariye moja dekhche..shombhoboto bhabje ei oshomoye, obelae k tumi bhindeshi , ki dekhte eshecho, amra kemon chilam…ta tumi jene korbe ta ki shuni ???! ASI er ekta board jholano, shombhoboto lekha ‘private property: tresspassers will be prosecuted’.. janina, kobe theke abar ekta place of worship private property hoye thake… 







Jai hok, thanda porche, amader ebar namte hobe, circuit house e ferar pala, jongol poth onekta, jeep ta dariye ache amader jonno..chere chole gele, ekhanei raat katate hobe, jeta ekdom budhdimaner kaj hobena… koustuv ta ekhono pagoler moton chobi tulei jachche.. niche surrounding gram e survey kortey berute hobe oder porey thaka next generation er sritikotha shongroho kortey... ager generation er kaukey pele aro bhalo..oral history’r source niye kaj korar etai chap, khub bishsash korte hoy, jachai na kore bishshash koraro jo thakena. Tobey sheta kal..aj ami too full of the impact of the fort, jeno beshi korey mukhrochok shingara kheye felechi..hojom hotey shomoy lagbe.. 







Jeep e othar agey protapgorer entrance er shamney theke ekbar pichoney takalam durger bhetorey, joto ta durey nojor jae… ki oshombhob transformed hoye gelo muhurter modhdhe ..chilling.. shurjer aloe ektu onyo rokomi laglilo..surjaster gaye durger mosreen sillhoute e chok bolatey bolatey money holo watch tower e ekjon much baar korlo, for 1 split second, ami sposhto dekhte pelam ekta mukh… koustuv r driver ke daktei ora egiye elo, but mukh ta hapish.. kintu chilo, ami nijey dekhte pelam, driver bole, bhanga hindi tey j ei durgey shondhe r keu ashena, nodi de jol niteo ashena, shobai gram theke surjo dobar agey epaarer shob kaj shesh kore rakhe.. durgey naki bhoot ache. Mrito manusher pretatta ghurey berae, golar awaj pawa jae, ghorar khurer shobdo… surjer alor pore khan theke naki keu jibito beroy na…







Jotoshob baje kotha, oitihashi kra abar bhootey bishash kore naki! Nonsense..



But mukh ta ke chilo, ki chilo, keno shekhane chilo, kisher khoje eshechilo, naki shudhu amar chokher bhool, eto bhool?... tahole dekhbo keno…ar amar dikei ba takabe keno orom haa korey?...




Jodi jante partam…



Ghorar khurer shobdo… togbok… togbok… togbok…


No comments:

Post a Comment